Pisa Cathedral. 1/250 @ f/2, ISO 200
As I was preparing for my summer vacation – a two week stay in Italy – I spent some time thinking which camera to take with me. This is a recurrent problem every time I travel since I have so many cameras and lenses and I love them all.
The problem is I like to travel light – gone are the days when I travelled with two SLR bodies so I didn’t have to change lenses on the run. That was crazy but back then I was young, I could spend a full day walking around with tons of gear in my backpack.
Not now though. Nowadays when I travel I just take one camera and one lens attached to it, that’s it. That’s why it’s not an easy decision.
To start with, I wanted something light and simple to use, a camera you can ask the restaurant waiter or innocent bystander to use when you want that family group photo. So immediately I put my Leica M-E aside even though for a while I flirted with the idea of strolling the streets of Florence with a 35mm Summicron. It felt appropriate and romantic. But no, not when you travel with kids and have to manual focus everything.
Eventually, while still not sure which camera to take to the trip, the idea of buying a new camera started growing on me. I mean, getting a new camera and then spend two weeks in Europe testing it, sounds right and logical, no?
Long story short, the problem now was which camera to buy (so even better than which camera to take from the ones that I own…). At least I knew what I was looking for: it was either a Leica Q or a Sony RX1R II.
I wanted portability and the best image quality in a small, fixed lens arrangement. The Fujifilm X100F was never in the list though, the reason being that I already own several X system bodies and lenses. Getting a X100 F was never going to be a refreshing and exciting experience as I guess all Fuji X system cameras work more or less the same.
Between the Leica Q and the Sony Rx1R II, after much consideration the later ended up winning the war. Two things weighed in my final decision: the 35mm focal length of the Sony and its much smaller size.
So what you are about to read is the story of my Sony RX1R II and my full review.
* * *
I. The Sony brand
Now before I continue writing about this excellent camera, let me get this out of the way first. I was never a Sony fan. I mean, if like me you grew up in the 80s-90s, so yes Sony was cool those days with the yellow plastic Walkmans and probably at home your stereo was a Sony dual deck auto reverse cassette / CD player with Dolby surround pumping out Technotronic and the likes. That was cool. Was.
Yes, this is the same “Sony” that now produces the RX1R II
On top of everything, for me Sony is the consumer electronic brand, its products I used to see filling up the shelves of supermarkets and home appliance stores, side by side with rice cookers and hair dryers. Therefore I never got excited when Sony bought out Konica Minolta and stepped into the prosumer photography market. Nor do I accept the “Sony” logo in their cameras other than cheap point & shoot, i.e. the DSLRs, mirrorless or other more serious cameras. Looks not legit to me because somehow I cannot erase the concept that the Sony logo shall only adorn VHS video players and mini tape phone recorders.
“Sony” and “RX1R” engravings painted black.
Enough of this nonsense though. This was only to say the first thing I did when getting the camera out of the box was to paint both the Sony logo and the RX1R II engraving in black. Looks a lot better like this, at least for me.
II. How I setup the RX1R II to suit me
Before I get into the image quality and discuss the photos coming out of this camera, you will find below my general comments on the RX1R II’s hardware and software, plus how I have it set and customised to suit me.
My camera is not a toy or an electronic gadget, it’s a tool for me to take photos and I need to feel comfortable using it. So once set and ready I start shooting and never come back to the settings. I couldn’t care less.
If you don’t care about this then you can jump directly to the “III. What really matters: Image Quality & User Experience” section below.
More black paint
As mentioned above, first thing out of the box I painted the logo and model name in black. Then I decided to further expand the scope of my black marker and painted the autofocus engravings (S, C, DMF, MF) black as well. That’s all at the front side of the camera body and I just decided it looks better like this.
Then at the back, the EVF marking with its big arrow pointing at the button you have to push to release the viewfinder… It looked completely out of scale and unnecessary. So one more for my black marker and the adjacent RX1R II marking was not spared as well. Finally the On/Off engraving on top of the body. These all seemed unnecessary to me. I know this is weird, but I like to like what I use.
Lens cap and hood
The lens cap from this camera is top notch. It’s quite heavy for what it is and frankly I haven’t had such a good lens cap before, not even my Leica 50mm Summilux. It’s built from several different parts and you can see the screws in the back, so it’s not the usual single layer of plastic. It feels dense in your hand.
This is quality stuff.
However, when I go out with a camera I either leave the lens cap at home or in my pocket and I won’t see it again until I’m back home. I like to be ready whenever a photo opportunity arises so I don’t want any lens cap slowing me down.
I don’t put on any UV filters as well. I don’t think it makes any sense: you spend thousands of dollars for a good performing lens and then you put a filter interfering with the way the light hits the lens. I’m sure there are many prime filters out there in the market, but I prefer not to have any and let the light hit the lens directly as it was designed to be.
With JJC’s hood attached. This will protect your lens and it looks cool.
So as a way to protect the lens I bought a third party hood from JJC in Amazon. It cost me USD$ 19.90 and it’s a perfect copy of the original Sony LHP-1 lens hood that will set you back USD$ 125.
The JJC lens hood is nicely built in metal and fits the lens perfectly with a reassuring click. It’s very solid indeed: it survived a direct hit from the sliding door of a taxi in Rome and all it left was a few scratches only.
EVF and rubber eyecup
The EVF is very good. You have to press a button and it pops out of the camera body. It’s quite cool. The original RX1R had no EVF and in its place it had a pop out flash. The Sony guys were clever and probably figured out an EVF is a must these days for cameras, especially at this price point.
The EVF comes with a rubber eyecup to block the sunlight. Obviously you can only attach it after the EVF slides out of the camera body. It’s easy to put on and then there is a screw knob that fixes it in place so it won’t accidentally fall out. It’s well thought.
With and without the eyecup. Note the diopter adjustment switch.
However, if like me you wear glasses than you can forget about the eyecup because the added viewpoint distance will stop you getting a full view of the EVF. It’s a shame as I think the camera looks very cool with the eyecup attached. Anyway maybe it’s better like this as without the eyecup I can easily slide the EVF in and out of the camera body. Perhaps better this way. I never had problems with sunlight though so you can definite leave the eyecup at home.
The EVF image is large, bright and clear. Don’t be worried with refresh rates or size. It’s amongst the best you can get these days, you will get used to it immediately and it will just become second nature. The colours are accurate and even in darkness I found it to be very adequate, it didn’t slow down.
You can adjust the brightness and colours if needed. In several occasions I had to set maximum brightness because I was outdoors with strong sunlight. It gave a bright enough image so I had no problems at all.
There is a diopter adjustment switch that you have to slide front or back to change. It’s not that easy to slide, it’s a bit on the hard side but then the good thing is that it won’t move out of its position once set.
When I’m out shooting I just leave the EVF out of the camera body. I don’t bother with putting it back in and never had a problem with this. It’s solidly built so it won’t break if you accidentally hit it with something as I did many times.
I don’t like camera straps, especially the ones that come with the cameras. Normally they are hard and cheap with large and unaesthetic brand logos stitched on it. But most of the times I find camera straps quite annoying.
So for every camera I use the same strap from Peak Design (https://www.peakdesign.com/collections/straps). I use their anchor links which makes it quick and easy to attach or remove the camera strap. Their straps for mirrorless cameras are soft and light and you can quick and easily adjust the length.
Peak Design strap. It’s soft and doesn’t limit your movements.
I always have my strap long enough to carry the camera across my chest thus comfortably spreading the load to my body. I can carry the RX1R II all day like this without feeling tired and it stays close to my body, not dangling around, and always ready for action.
So don’t ask me about the RX1R II’s original strap: I didn’t even bother to take it out of the box.
Battery life of the RX1R II is weak. Or should I say very, very weak. I can’t tell you how many shots a day I was taking on average in my Italy trip, but everyday I’d use at least one full battery plus 50% of a second one.
It’s not the end of the world, you just need to buy some extra batteries. After all, the amazing thing about this camera is its small size, so you wouldn’t want to see a big fat battery ruining it all, right? And let’s not forget it’s feeding a 42 megapixel full frame sensor.
If you are buying this camera I strongly recommend you buy some spare batteries. For sure, one battery will not last a full day out and very soon you will see the battery meter going down. So keeping an extra one in your pocket, if anything, will save you the stress of battery anxiety. Keeping two will make you feel 100% confident.
See that amber light down there? It’s charging.
Clever design. No added wall plug, just use a standard USB cable.
Luckily for me, when I bought my RX1R II, I managed to get two spare batteries in the deal – one original and one OEM. Perfect.
You can charge the battery directly in the camera by plugging in the micro USB port. A little amber colour light will turn on at the port to confirm it’s connected and charging.
Alternatively you can use the charger case that comes with the camera which is quite neat. Just connect it through USB to charge the battery. Both charging solutions are practical for travelling and charging several batteries simultaneously.
You may have noticed I have a thumb grip installed in my camera. That’s because there is almost no grip in the camera body, only a slight hump in the front and something even smaller at the back for your thumb.
This is a small and light camera, but still you have that relatively large Zeiss glass at the front. With a thumb grip on I felt it improves considerably the balance of the camera and, most importantly, you will feel more confident holding it and not fearing the RX1R II will fall from your hand and hit the ground.
Sony has a proprietary thumb grip but I didn’t want to spend any money on it, so I’m using my old Match Technical thumb grip I bought years ago for my Fujifilm X-Pro 1.
Menu and custom settings
I’m sure you’d already heard about the typical Sony menus and how complicated and badly laid out they are. The RX1R II is no exception.
The main problem is that you can literally customise everything you want in this camera. If you are the sort of guy who likes to tweak everything then you are in heaven and this is a home run for you.
That Sony menu… Now try to figure out what “Balanced Emphasis” mean.
But if you are like me you will feel the whole thing is just stupid. You go through the menus and submenus and initially you even sort of get a grip of it and start thinking it’s actually not that bad. There is a logic in the way everything is organised. Problem is you see options you don’t really understand what you are changing, you change and expect the camera to react a certain way because that’s what you think you had changed, only that it doesn’t.
Before I bought this camera I read in some forum that the RX1R II offers you several options to digitally zoom your view, much like the Leica Q that being a native 28mm camera it let’s you shoot at 35mm and 50mm through digital zoom. In the case of the RX1R II, considering you have 42 megapixel to play I though it could be handy, even bearing in mind that you can do it in post processing anyway by cropping out the photo.
Now let me tell you one thing: I’ve tried for several times but still cannot find the digital zoom in the RX1R II’s menu. Not that I’ve tried very hard and I’m sure if I further investigate I will eventually find it. But hey, this is not how it’s supposed to be, right?
If you enjoy photography then I suggest not to waste any time with this. To the same extent, don’t spend too much time optimising the buttons and customising everything to suit your style. Just adapt yourself to the buttons as they come in their default setting and with time you will build the muscle memory to work with your camera efficiently.
Photography is about exposure to light and therefore everything else is superfluous. Learn how to change shutter speed and aperture. That’s all you need. Forget the menu and customising your camera, spend more time taking photos instead.
Shooting modes and image settings
There are the usual PASM modes in the main control dial so nothing new here. Then there are 3 custom modes that you can preset somewhere in the confines of the menu. Then video, panoramic, scene mode and FULL AUTO for dumb / lazy photographers or let’s say photographers that trust on giving 100% control to the camera.
I seldom turn the PASM wheel as 99% of the time I shoot in aperture priority mode.
PASM wheel plus some other modes. The icons are self explanatory.
I have ISO set to auto and let the camera choose the best ISO for me. The high ISO of this camera is amongst the best you can find, so I can afford not to bother with controlling the ISO setting. Just leave it in auto and it works.
Same for white balance, you can leave it in auto. I found the white balance to be pretty accurate, even in mixed light conditions.
JPEG vs RAW
I don’t like to spend time post processing in front of the computer so I’d happily use the straight out of camera JPEGs as I do in my Fujifilm cameras. Yet after some checking I realised I was not so happy with the results of the JPEGs from this camera. You can see below.
JPEG on top, RAW below. Note the added contrast on the JPEG, namely the blue in the eyes that became very bright and lost the detail of the colour gradations.
I don’t like the added contrast and the colours seem to be smoother and more accurate in RAW. So with the RX1R II, I shoot RAW only.
By the way, the RAW files are huge. I shoot in compressed mode and the files are around 45 Mb. If you set to uncompressed then each photo will take approximately 80 Mb of your hard disk.
I’ve made several comparisons and frankly can see no difference between compressed and uncompressed. At least not for me or my needs. So I’ve decided to shoot in compressed mode because at least I can save some hard disk space and, most importantly, don’t need to work with unnecessary large files in post processing that can eventually slow things down.
Shutter release button, aperture ring and exposure compensation dial
For me these are the main dials I interact with when I’m shooting and, again, everything else is just superfluous.
Shutter with black soft release added.
The shutter release button is threaded so you can screw in a soft release button. I have one as it feels a lot better. Soft release buttons are cheap these days, so you better get one.
There are three rings in the lens, from top to bottom: focusing ring; macro / normal focus distance ring; and aperture ring.
The aperture ring is very well built. There is a solid click for every 1/3 of a stop. The ring is not heavy but it feels dense and not as light as in the Fujifilm X lenses. Feels good.
There is an exposure compensation dial like in many recent cameras. It’s a bit hard to turn which is good as you won’t have it turned accidentally. This happened to me several times with my Fujifilm X-Pro1 and it sucked.
The exposure compensation dial is very useful since when I’m in aperture priority mode (i.e. 99% of the time) it not only adjusts the shutter speed but also the ISO. So I can concentrate on composing and taking my shot – turn the wheel up or down and you can trust the camera will do the right thing for you.
III. What really matters:
Image Quality & User Experience
Straight to the point: the image quality coming out of the RX1R II is nothing short of amazing. This guy is a beast. When I uploaded my first photos my jaw dropped and I was like “no way!”. I mean, superb image quality, probably better than anything I’ve owned before, and all coming out of such a small package!
I’m not sure how Sony was able to pull this out. I know this is the same 42 megapixel sensor they are using in the A7R III but I’ve read several reviews from people who own both cameras and apparently even the A7R III, while being good on its own, the photos it produces are nowhere near as good or as magical as the ones coming out of the RX1R II.
Carousel in Florence. 1/500 a@ f2.0, ISO 100
Perhaps it’s the Zeiss 35mm f2 lens attached to it which, by the way, is excellent and super sharp even wide open at f/2, and the fact that this is a fixed lens camera, so maybe Sony engineers were able to calibrate the sensor and everything else to suit and extract the maximum from this lens/sensor combo.
I’ve always been a fan of the 35mm focal length. It’s very flexible, it’s wide but not too wide and allows you to get close ups while still having the surroundings in the frame, thus able to tell a story. In fact you can take some nice portraits with a 35mm.
Apparently and according to some camera review sites, the RX1R II’s Zeiss lens produces considerable barrel distortion. They are probably right but, you know what, normally I don’t spend time taking photos of brick walls… So I’ve been using this camera for several months now and in real life situations I have not had a single shot that was ruined because of barrel distortion.
I’m not a pixel peeper and the 42 megapixel sensor was never a decisive factor for me when buying this camera. However, I have to admit, after using it I started to understand the flexibility 42 megapixels gives you for cropping.
On the other hand, it’s fun sometimes just to zoom in your photos and appreciate what this sensor combined with the sharp Zeiss lens is able to offer. It’s crazy as when you zoom in it feels like it never ends, you can always zoom more due to the high megapixel count.
Santa Croce’s façade in Florence taken from a distance at 1/250 @ f/5.6, ISO 100…
…and now zoom in and look at the detail of the main portal it captured even from that distance!
I’m not posting any here but if you take a portrait shot and nail focus at your subject’s eyes, you can literally zoom in and see yourself reflected in the subject’s eyeballs. It’s crazy. Oh, you can also see all the micro blood vessels surrounding the cornea and take it to the eye doctor if needed. I’m serious about this.
Low light performance
Another amazing thing about this camera is that it sees in the dark. The high ISO performance is superb and the f/2 aperture makes it really strong in low light situations. It actually beats your eyes seeing in the dark and the camera will expose dark scenes in a way that it becomes brighter than reality.
Seeing the light. 1/125 @ f/2, ISO 400.
Cliché shot but I’m enjoying it. 1/125 @ f/2.8, ISO 800.
Santa Maria Novella, Florence. 1/125 @ f/2, ISO 800
San Giovanni baptistery, Florence. 1/125 @ f/2, ISO 500
The good thing about this is that you feel no limits so you keep shooting and shooting and enjoying it as I did inside the churches in Italy that were dimly lit.
Most of these photos were shot with Exposure Compensation set to minus 1. This was after checking in the screen and feeling that the camera was exposing too much, therefore the resulting photo would be brighter than the reality. Underexposing can obviously give you a more dramatic look and what I found is that the files from the RX1R II give you a lot of latitude in post processing and you can pull up the details in both highlights and shadows and adjust to your taste.
We are talking excellent dynamic range. Therefore this camera gives you no limitations. You have no excuses.
San Salvatore, Florence. 1/125 @ f/2. ISO 400.
San Salvatore, Florence. Note the details captured in both dark and bright areas in the ceiling and altar, respectively. 1/125 @ f/2, ISO 1250.
Under bright sunlight
In outdoor situations and as in many cameras, I found the RX1R II overexposing to the point some highlights would appear completely blown out. I’m not sure why this happens but for whatever reason this seems to be very common in every recent camera I use. Bear in mind though that this all happened in August in Italy, under a clear blue sky with no clouds filtering the strong sunlight from above.
Hence again I decided to underexpose and I think it works out quite well. This is the beauty of it, you need to get to know your camera and build up the chemistry before you start producing your keepers.
I see in some camera reviews people focused on irrelevant specs that have nothing to do with image quality, then they will even say because of whatever insignificant shortcoming it is a show stopper. Like the lack of dual SD card slots or in camera image stabilisation. I don’t get it. Do these people really enjoy photography?
From Ponte Vecchio, Florence. 1/800 @ f/8, ISO 100
Pisa Cathedral. 1/1000 @ f/8, ISO 100.
Pisa. 1/500 @ f/8, ISO 1000.
Anzio. 1/640 @ f/5.6, ISO 100
Straight out of the RX1R II, I found the photos to be very pleasant. Colours are accurate and sometimes the way this Zeiss lens renders the images, it reminds me of the colours I get from my Leica M-E. You get that special ambience that is a bit magical. The colour tones, the contrast, the subtle transitions between different colours, light and shadow. It’s got a very special signature and I love it. Again, coming from such a small package I think it’s amazing.
So when you have this level of Image Quality in hand, obviously all my comments above regarding the Sony brand and the over complicated menu system become irrelevant.
I’m not a bokeh junkie and I think nowadays people are a bit obsessed with bokeh. Even camera phones now provide bokeh through digital tweaks. It’s weird.
Bokeh from this Zeiss 35mm at f/2 is smooth and not distracting. You need to be close to your subject which is not surprising as this is a 35mm lens and when that happens the separation from the background it provides is competent. The lens is sharp wide open, so it gives you that 3D pop. However it is not as sharp and clinical as my 35mm Summicron matched to my Leica M-E.
Mediterranean sea, Anzio. 1/1000 @ f/4, ISO 100
Ponte Vecchio, Florence. 1/2000 @ f/2, ISO 100.
This is not to say the RX1R II and its Zeiss lens is somehow inferior to the Leica. Every camera / lens combination has its own personality and the RX1R II produces magnificent results with a lot of soul. And everything is relative: put both cameras on a low light situation and the RX1R II will beat the Leica hands down.
Autofocus & manual focus
Autofocus is fast and reliable in most conditions. I don’t know what happens in absolute darkness – nowadays it seems to be one of the torture tests camera reviewers like to submit the autofocus to. And I don’t understand why. Perhaps these people can’t see in the dark or are vampires that only take pictures in dark confined spaces. Who knows.
What I know is that the autofocus works very well, it doesn’t hesitate or hunt back and forth so it won’t distract you from taking your photos. It does its job and gets out of the way. So it’s good.
Yet I’m a “focus and recompose” kind of photographer. So I have the autofocus of my RX1R II set to center focus point and that’s it.
I’ve tested the RX1R II’s Face Detection mode just for the sake of testing and, fair enough, I can say it works really well. 99% of the time it nails focus on your subject.
Piazza Navona, Rome. 1/125 @ f/2, ISO 6400
If like me you have kids that never stop and always ninja out of the frame before you can focus, then the Face Detection feature can be very useful. And Sony being Sony, the RX1R II even let’s you calibrate Face Detection by saving the faces of your usual subjects. I haven’t tried it, but I guess by doing so when you take a group photo with many faces, the camera will know which face to focus on. Crazy.
Still, I prefer to focus and recompose because I like to be in control. I’m old school and I don’t like the camera deciding the focus point for my photo, even if most of the times the camera is probably right.
You can go manual focus if this is your cup of tea. There is focus peaking and you can also have the camera magnify the image automatically whenever you turn the focusing wheel. I don’t recall using manual focus, just a couple of times when shooting in macro mode. Otherwise I’m more than happy with the camera’s auto focus.
This camera uses a leaf shutter so if you are one of those who are so concerned with the “noise” coming out of mechanical shutters because you take photos in a silent world with absolute no background noise, then you should be happy. The leaf shutter is very discreet indeed.
I’m not obsessive about this. In fact, I shot SLRs and DSLRs for over 20 years so I’m used to the click-clack of the mirror box whenever you press the shutter. Same for the focal plane shutters from micro 4/3 cameras that I owned in the past and other system cameras like the Fujifilm X system. I like the subtle and mild vibration and the mechanical experience. Makes me feel I’m holding a camera, not an electronic gadget.
So in the RX1R II you have this leaf shutter that feels effortless. Fortunately it’s not totally silent and somehow, even though there is no vibration to the body, you can still feel it when you take a photo.
Talking about shutter, if there is one thing I’d like to see improved it’s the shutter speed: it maxes out at 1/4000 of a second, which means in broad daylight it’s quite difficult to shoot wide open at f/2. In several occasions I had to stop down to f/2.8, f/3.5 or even f/4.
Unlike other recent cameras in the market, the RX1R II does not offer any electronic shutter mode with higher shutter speeds, so if you really need to shoot wide open in bright conditions then get yourself a set of ND filters to limit the light hitting the lens. The lack of electronic shutter is not a show stopper, it’s just a “nice to have” and an observation I’m making since my Fujifilm X-E3 switches automatically from mechanical to electronic shutter when higher speeds are needed. It goes up to a crazy 1/32 000 of a second. So with the Fuji I can even shoot at f/1.4 under direct sunlight.
I’m not passionate about macro photography but every now and then I shoot flowers just for the sake of it. The RX1R II has a macro mode and all you have to do is to turn the ring in the lens that will set it to focus from a 0.2m – 0.35m distance. No need to dive into the focusing options menus and submenus and find that macro flower logo like in other cameras.
Nature at home. 1/125 @ f/2, ISO 100.
Flowers. 1/125 @f/5.6, ISO 100
Being a 35mm lens it obviously won’t give you much in terms of macro reproduction ratio, but since this is a full frame 42 megapixel sensor you can always crop in and get some interesting results. Obviously this is possible due to the outstanding quality of the Zeiss lens.
IV. Final thoughts
Pisa cathedral. 1/125 @ f/2.5, ISO 100.
When Sony launched the first version of the RX1R it triggered my attention due to its small size, the Zeiss 35mm f/2 lens and, above all, the full frame sensor. However, the lack of an EVF made me lose any interest since I’m old school and I don’t like to shoot with the back screen, however good it is.
Mark II of this camera comes with the much needed EVF plus other overall improvements, namely the autofocus speed that was also a concern before. Then, of course, they had decided to add this crazy 42 megapixel sensor.
So all of a sudden you have a killer: a camera that is light and portable, with an outstanding lens and a full frame sensor on steroids!
Yes, the RX1R II is a full frame camera, yet is smaller than several cameras in the market that have smaller APS-C or even micro 4/3 sensors. This camera is so small and light that you don’t need to think twice when you are going out and in the mood to take a camera with you.
This is a pocket rocket, a hand grenade that is unbelievably powerful. It’s small yet the excellent results it delivers makes it hard to believe.
The RX1R II embarasses bigger and heavier system cameras and make them look obsolete and inefficient!
Now because of this I’m seriously thinking about selling my Fujifilm XF 23mm f/2 lens since it’s got the same equivalent focal length and now that I’ve got the RX1R II, I don’t think I’m going to use the Fujifilm again.
I’m glad I ended up picking the RX1R II against the Leica Q and I couldn’t be more satisfied with my decision which, after using this camera for several months now, I know it was the right one. Mind me, I’m sure if I had taken the Leica Q instead I’d be a happy man as well. But the good thing about the RX1R II is that it’s killed my previous misconception about Sony cameras and even triggered on me an interest on the A7R III which uses the same 42 megapixel sensor.
So what’s not to like about this camera?
It delivers superb image quality, an f/2 aperture matched with solid high ISO performance and a 35mm focal length that is suitable for many situations. It’s well built, light and portable. This camera is pretty much perfect.
So if you are reading this because you are researching about this camera, don’t think no more. Just buy yourself an RX1R II and you will not regret.
V. Samples gallery
Some random samples from my RX1R II, please enjoy.